Gear

Somewhere in the next few weeks the first properly damp night of autumn will cut an observing session short, and it won’t be cloud that does it. A film of water forms on the front of the telescope, the stars go soft, then milky, then gone, and you spend twenty minutes with a battery hairdryer wondering where the sky went. That’s dew, and it’s the most avoidable way to lose a clear night. Here’s what forms it, what stops it, and where you can stop spending — because the cheapest fix is often enough, and some of you don’t need to buy anything at all. ...

The single most useful thing I can tell you before the Perseids peak this week: leave the star tracker at home. For meteors you want the opposite of what a tracker gives you: a wide, fixed field of sky and a long run of short exposures, waiting for something to fall into frame. A camera, a fast wide lens, a sturdy tripod, and a cheap intervalometer will catch Perseids all night. That’s the whole kit. ...

The ZWO Seestar S50 I reviewed in May is out of production. Walk into the smart-telescope aisle today and the Seestar you can actually buy new is a 30 mm scope: the S30 or the S30 Pro. The “successor” has 20 mm less aperture than the thing it replaced. If you’ve spent any time reading telescope forums, that sentence should make you flinch, because aperture is the one number those forums agree on. The question I keep getting emailed: does a 30 mm smart telescope give up too much from a light-polluted balcony, and should you hunt down a used S50 instead? ...

The two most useful eyepieces you can own probably aren’t the two that came in the box, and choosing them takes two numbers, not brand loyalty. Your telescope most likely arrived with a 25mm and a 10mm eyepiece. This piece is about what those millimetres actually do, why the 10mm is so uncomfortable to look through, and which two eyepieces to add first so you cover the sky from wide star fields to the cloud belts on Jupiter. No “best eyepiece” ranking. Just the arithmetic, worked on the scopes beginners actually buy. ...

On a June night in Nicosia, ambient 30°C at 11 pm with no breeze, I ran a 40-minute stack on the eastern Veil Nebula with the Seestar S50. The final image looked passable at full zoom-out. At 100% crop the background was peppered with hot pixels, and the faintest filaments had disappeared into a warm, grainy haze that no processing could salvage. The same target in March, with nighttime temps around 14°C, had noticeably more contrast in those faint regions. Same scope. Same integration time. Same processing. The only variable was temperature. ...

The August 12 total solar eclipse is 55 days out. If you’re planning to photograph it, point a telescope at it, or just watch the partial phases safely, you need a solar filter. Prices are still normal and stock is still available. By late July neither will be true. Here’s what the numbers on the label mean, which filters are worth the money, and what I’m packing for Spain. The one number on every solar filter: optical density Every solar filter blocks a fraction of the Sun’s light. The spec you care about is optical density (OD), a logarithmic scale. OD 5 means only 10^-5 of the incoming light gets through — one hundred-thousandth. OD 4 passes ten times more. That factor of ten is the line between safe for your eyes and not. ...

I shoot from a fourth-floor balcony in Nicosia. Bortle 7 on a clear night, Bortle 8 when the football pitch lights are on. Every spring, someone in the astrophotography forums asks: “Which filter should I buy for light-polluted skies?” The answers range from “get an L-Pro” to “move to the countryside.” Neither is particularly useful if you’re standing on a balcony with a one-shot colour camera and two hours before the neighbour’s security light comes on. ...

The Milky Way core is above the horizon from the northern hemisphere between roughly May and September. From my latitude in Nicosia (35°N), the galactic center tops out at about 26° above the southern horizon. Low enough that Troodos at 1,700 m is worth the midnight drive, but high enough to image from anywhere with a clear southern view. If you own a camera and a lens wider than 50 mm, a star tracker is the cheapest single upgrade that turns a noisy 15-second snapshot into a clean, deep wide-field frame. I’ve spent the past few months researching them before committing to one. Here’s what the specs mean and which three models are worth comparing. ...

The ZWO Seestar S50 sat on my balcony railing in Nicosia for 47 sessions between November 2025 and April 2026. I pointed it at globulars, planetaries, galaxies, the Moon, and — twice — Jupiter. After six months I know exactly who should buy one and, more usefully, who should save the money for something else. The setup that kept me coming back The S50 weighs 1.5 kg. I carry it out with one hand, set it on the railing, open the app, and I’m imaging within three minutes. No polar alignment, no balance weights, no multi-star alignment routine. The internal plate solver — the same astrometry.net algorithm I wrote about last month — handles pointing. Tap an object, the telescope slews, stacking begins. ...

If you have €120–€180 and you’ve never owned an astronomy instrument, buy a pair of 10×50 binoculars. Don’t buy a telescope. I’ve watched too many friends spend €200 on a wobbly 70mm department-store refractor, see Saturn as a tiny pixel-blur once, and shelve the thing for good. There’s exactly one case where that advice flips, and I’ll get to it. But the default answer, for the person walking into this hobby with no gear and no specific target in mind, is binoculars. ...