Stargazing

Lastovo is the most distant inhabited island from the Croatian mainland — about 14 km of open sea south of Korčula, and a good deal further from any coastal city glow. Roughly 800 people live there, spread across a municipality of 46 islands and islets. In 2008 the island swapped out every public streetlight for low-wattage, full-cutoff lamps that throw nothing upward, years before Croatia had a law requiring it. The result is one of the darkest inhabited places left in the Mediterranean, and a live candidate for International Dark Sky Park status. ...

Southern Portugal’s Alentejo region is flat, dry, and almost empty. The largest artificial lake in Western Europe — Alqueva — sits at its center, surrounded by cork oak plains, whitewashed villages, and roughly zero urban light domes. In 2011, the Starlight Foundation (supported by UNESCO, the IAU, and UNWTO) certified a 10,000 km² zone around the lake as the world’s first Starlight Tourism Destination. Fourteen years later, the reserve is still one of the darkest accessible skies in Europe, and one of the easiest to reach. ...

If you live anywhere on Cyprus, you can be under SQM 21.3 skies in 90 minutes. The Troodos massif covers the central third of the island, peaks at 1,952 m on Mount Olympus, and is the only place on Cyprus with both real darkness and paved roads to it. From my balcony in Nicosia (Bortle 7, SQM around 19.0 on a good night), the difference is roughly two visual magnitudes. The Milky Way goes from “you can almost see it” to “you can read your watch by it.” ...